Below is a recap of the blog from our Camino del Norte walk in September of 2022. We hiked from Castro Urdiales to Santiago over 23 days. During that time, we met some amazing people who accompanied, inspired and laughed with us during our journey. This camino, we were less rigid about walking every centimeter of the way and twice took a bus. Once to avoid a long, boring, industrial slog and meet our schedule and once to allow for an unexpected hospital visit.
Three Weeks Before… When we thought we were doing the Portuguese Camino
Three weeks to go before the Camino (or the Caminho as I should now call it). Yesterday was a long training day – 20 miles (32 km) on the Wildwood trail. Leading up to yesterday we had put a lot of miles on our boots, including many miles of much hillier terrain than we will see anywhere on the Portuguese Camino. Only one blister. But yesterday was our first 30km+ training hike. A lot of today has consequently been spent admiring my blisters. The single blister I had going into the hike has now been joined by five new friends. On the one hand I kick myself for not doing more blister prevention yesterday morning, on the other hand I am glad that I learned my lesson before the start of the journey. This first post is therefore dedicated to Rebecca from Blister Prevention. If you are considering a long hike make sure you watch the video below. Rebecca Rocks!
Change of Plans to the Camino del Norte
A lot has changed in a week. To be frank, some of those things should have been investigated a teensy bit sooner than three weeks before departure. The first thing we forgot to do was investigate whether or not the planned route was either a/ on fire, b/ about to be on fire, or c/ close to an area on fire. I guess we were too busy worrying about our last hundred grams of pack weight and going back and forth to REI to sweat the “little things.”
With fires, heat, and a lack of accommodation worrying us, we made the difficult decision to switch to the Camino del Norte. Our flights have therefore been changed to fly into Bilbao rather than Lisbon. Our plan is to join up with the Northern route outside of Bilbao, following the camino as it wanders along Spain’s northern coast. The Camino del Norté is the third most frequented route after the Camino Francés and the Camino Portugués. It has been described as more beautiful and more challenging than other caminos but time will tell. One thing we are sure of, with a 10 day weather forecast which appears to be solid rain with the occasional appearance of the sun, we will be quite safe from wildfires. We have also stopped wrestling with the decision of whether or not to pack rain pants.
If you have been following La Vuelta, Spain’s equivalent of the Tour de France, today’s stage showed footage along the first stops of the Camino del Norte, nicely illustrating how “biblical” can be used as an adjective to describe rainfall. With many training days in the rainy Pacific Northwest we are not concerned. How bad could it be?
Day 0: Arrival in Bilbao and Bus to Castro Urdiales
To fit the journey into our allocated number of days, we decided to start our walk from Castro Urdiales, which is located about 40 kilometers from the Bilbao airport. There is pretty good bus service from the center of Bilbao- other than on a Sunday afternoon. We therefore cheated and arrived at Sunday night’s accommodation by cab, the Garden Rooms.
To make up for our lazy start, we took a stroll around Castro Urdiales. It had a very pleasant beach, an interesting church, and great scenery. Lots of people enjoying a typically late Spanish lunch.
After our stroll, we began to remember all of the learnings we had forgotten, some of them from Camino 101. The first: if you are in a town that does not cater to pilgrims, a sit-down meal during Spanish lunch time (between 1:30 and 4:30) might be too early, but dinner (starting at 8 pm) will undoubtedly be too late. And many grocery stores are closed for siesta, or on Sunday, the entire day. We therefore got a jump start on our consumption of bread and chorizo and ate a sandwich on the beach for dinner. This learning was followed by a few others. Put your ear plugs in every night. Try and get a room with two single beds. Use the pillow and blankets you packed instead of wrestling with the sheet on the “couples” bed you were allocated. Close the external blinds to help block out the noise from the rooster who is confused between sunup and 2 a.m. Basic stuff. With very little rest, we began our walk at 7 a.m.
Day 1: More Rooky Mistakes
7.5 hours 32 km, Castro Urdiales to Santoña
Our walk out of Castro Urdiales was spectacular.
From the coastal path we chose to follow the N634. It was a lot of pavement with little room on the sides, but the traffic was relatively light and the drivers courteous.
In Liendo we swung towards the coast. This path was made up of a series of steep inclines on rocky terrain intermingled with fantastic, rocky, coastal views, and prickly foliage. At about 24km we began our descent into Laredo. By this time I was hot. Some (Robby) might say bordering on a bit snippy.
The view into Laredo from the hills highlighted its spectacularly long, sandy beach. Of note, at the very end of the beach (look carefully at the point), a small boat ferries passengers across the small body of water that separates Laredo from the nearly adjacent city, Santoña. Our plan was to stay in accommodation that we had booked in Laredo and take the ferry across the water the next morning. Here was the rub. The ferry only starts at 9 a.m. and the next day’s plans included a 30 km journey. With a late start, chances were I would spontaneously combust in the heat prior to arriving at our next Albergue. We therefore made the game day decision to continue walking and take the boat across to Santoña. The last 5 km “walk” on sidewalks along the peninsula seemed to take roughly forever. Follow signs to the boat which will pull up on the sand.
Once in Santoña, we located the Albergue Bilbaina. This required the help of several helpful locals as some sort of vortex kept turning the phone’s online map in circles. We returned the favor to a nice French couple who looked equally lost. With no host in sight, we sat down to “lunch” at 4 pm.
After rousing our host, we were given beds in an 8-bed bunkroom. Showered, clothes hand-washed, and feet up the wall to reduce swelling. We have chosen the side of the albergue that does not face the town square as the square has just been populated with a series of jumpy castles and two hosts “encouraging” the young crowd with music and running commentary on microphones.
Refreshed, we had a wander around town. An excellent meal in the town center at the Junçal Café. Lots of people watching as Santoñans enjoyed their local festival. Good news! We had the albergue bunk room to ourselves all night! The band was a wee bit noisy until 1 a.m. but who am I to argue? Even the 7-year-olds stayed up later than us!
Tonight we did not forget lesson #16. Don’t forget your earplugs!
Day 2: Beaches, cliffs, fields, and blisters
7 hours, 31 km: Santoña to Galizano/Langre
Day 2 started at 7:15. A bit slow with lack of sleep and “second day feet.” A pleasant walk out of town next to a marsh.
More amazing beaches outside Santoña. Many camping vehicles with early morning surfers stumbling out of them and a million Berria surf schools. We followed the camino up a steep narrow rocky path which we later learned wasn’t for the faint of heart. Who knew there was an alternative (that was completely flat)?
After the beach phase of the day, we proceeded along rolling country roads, busier roads, and the occasional field. Not as much elevation gain as yesterday but enough to focus the mind. I have found that a steep hill keeps your mind off how much your feet hurt. A blessing!
The lesson of the day was to carefully consider each deviation from the planned route. Today I managed to take a path that eliminated contact with any establishment that served coffee at the appropriate hour and we made it to the first possible breakfast stop at 11:30. Tomorrow I will need to accelerate my snack eating to avoid starvation. Robby is kindly carrying a selection of biscuits, chocolate, and goodies for that eventuality.
Our accommodation today is the Langre Beach Surf Lodge. A real highlight. Great beds. Quiet surroundings. Great hospitality. The accommodation did not offer food, but the nice hostess offered to make us a salad from the garden with burrata from the next town. Typically we bring down the tenor of any place in which we stay thanks to our looks, smell, and the laundry hanging outside our bedroom window. Perhaps that is a driver behind the surly treatment by our servers? Regardless, tonight we feel at home with our surfer neighbors.
This camino I have not followed the right foot strategy and have blistered up earlier than expected. Perhaps feet hold grudges? Tomorrow will involve a pit stop in Santander for a new foot care strategy.
Day 3: Lazy day: slugs, sea, and pampas grass
5.5 hours, 22 km: ~Langre to Santa Cruz de Bezana
With the artificial assistance of some Benadryl, we slept straight through until 7:30. a.m. (Earplugs in as per lesson #7). Heaven! Today was to be a lazy day. In a bit of foreshadowing, my patronus made its first showing on the camino.
From fields of corn, to paths through wild pampas grass, the morning scenery was amazing.
A nice break followed, with a short ferry ride from Somo to Santander.
The first goal in Santander was a visit to the outdoor store to reassess my sock strategy. Despite the best efforts of the store staff to be as unhelpful as possible, I did manage to find a pair of sock liners that I will try out tomorrow.
The second goal was to find a cup of coffee and a breakfast food item. (I have found that lofty goals are the key to satisfaction on the camino).
We had heard that the road out of Santander was grim, but the city portion was very pleasant and the walk to our final destination was not without its scenic moments.
After a walk of only 22 km we secured a spot at the Hotel Bezana Lago. Basic. A bit noisy and dark.
Upon arrival we play a game called “Laundry with Robby.” After a handwash with whatever soap/ shampoo is available, a towel roll, and a hang dry, we are just a few hours away from putting on the same clothes again.
Today we totally nailed our meal strategy. After laundry, straight to appetizer, main, water and a bottle of red wine for “lunch” at El Trillo. 13 euros apiece. Very tasty!
Tomorrow we will go back to a longer trek: 28 km. With new socks and blister care items from 2 farmacias and a supermercado I am feeling optimistic. (Thought that is perhaps the red wine typing…)
Though Hotel Bezana Lago kindly welcomed us with a room yesterday, they did not mention having offered the same hospitality to hundreds of preteen school children. I slept peacefully through any shenanigans while Robby enjoyed the handball game that was being played on our bedroom wall.
Day 4: Taking our own way
5.5 hours, 22 km – Santa Cruz de Bezana to Santillana del Mar
With a room secured for the evening – and breakfast available at our hotel at the surprisingly early hour of 7 a.m. – we took things easy and had our “first breakfast” in the hotel cafe, hitting the road at 7:30.
Unlike the Camino Frances, the Camino del Norte offers many alternative routes. Today we chose the less scenic but shorter path. Many breathtaking views but some schlepping through busy roads as well. A camino first was the train that took us a total of one stop in order to traverse a train-only bridge. At the train station we met 8 other pilgrims, the most we have seen so far on this Camino. We see about 10 other pilgrims a day on average. A world away from the Camino Frances.
Coming off the train we peeled off in different directions. To each his/her own camino. Robby said that our total count of pilgrims seen for the day was 11, however that number paled in comparison to our count of garden gnomes.
The rest of the day was up and down, past the industrial area surrounding the Solvay factory, and up, up, up to the scenic medieval town of Santillana del Mar.
The Hotel Santillana was close to the action. Picturesque interior. Rather unfortunately placed on a busy corner – avoid rooms facing the street.
Day 5: Country Lanes, Cows, and House-Dresses
8 hours, 34km – Santillana de la Mar to San Vicente de la Barquera
We stormed out the door this morning at 6:45 a.m. An early start would let us take advantage of the cooler temperatures and would hopefully allow us to reach our destination before the “lunch” hour was over.
We managed to miss the first turn-off in the dark and led ourselves and four French women astray. Luckily we quickly recovered and avoided an international tiff. The morning, and indeed the whole day, had amazing vistas and pleasant temperatures.
Our second highlight of the day was breakfast. For 8 euros, we had two sandwiches and two coffees. But these were not just any sandwiches. Each sandwich was filled with baked ham, cured ham, cheese, an egg, and a hamburger patty. If you think that sounds like a bit too much, you’d be wrong!
The morning featured cool, leafy backroads, while the afternoon returned us to the coast.
With the world passing by at 4km an hour, some people take the moment to meditate and some people reflect on the meaning of life. Robby and I have thoughtful conversations such as today’s deliberation over which cows on the camino were the best looking.
The camino is not without drama. As Robby is speedier than I am, he has a handicap of more pack weight, the snacks, and today he took all the water. I am resigned to being the weak link of our pair. However, when an old woman walking along the lane flaunted her speed, I was not about to take it lying down.
Ten minutes later, I was getting close to passing her, when she darted into an alley. In my defense, she was sporting a very aerodynamic house dress and I had not yet eaten my second breakfast.
At just before 3 p.m. we steamed into the Hotel Playa de Meron. Time for a shower, the ceremonial washing of the clothes, and a dash to the restaurant on the ground floor of the hotel.
The hotel was clean and right on the beach. Our view, as befitted our last minute booking, overlooked the rear garden /bar which was very handy in the afternoon but a little tiresome as the Spaniards enjoyed themselves far into the wee hours. We also found it unusual that the hotel locked you inside overnight. I guess the risk of incinerating a few guests was less than that of letting any guests go without paying.
Day 6: More Hills, Upcycling, and Menus
6.5 hours, 27 km: San Vicente de la Barquera to Buelna
We hit the road at 6:45 this morning in time to see the full moon over the harbor. The temp was mild with a cool breeze – perfect for the steep hill leading out of the village.
Today felt more like the Camino Frances, though I’m not quite sure why. It wasn’t the number of fellow pilgrims (8). I think it was how the path meandered through some picturesque villages, some of which offered my favorite things: coffee and snacks.
My feet, suitably adorned with about 17 different blister products, started out strong. Later in the day, I was feeling my oats and even steamed up a long, steep hill passing a Spanish – German duo that we have been shadowing.
I’m not sure if the book agrees, but the hills on this route seem steeper. And longer. The photos do not do it justice.
Upcycling is something that has existed in the countryside for many years. Today we saw some eye-catching examples.
After what seemed like 30+ kilometers (but was only 27), we arrived at our destination, the Albergue de Santa Marina in Buelna. The hotel had it’s own restaurant and pub conveniently located below. This was handy as Buelna is a limited service town. If I look hot and tired in the photo, I was. After a clothes wash and a shower in a stall about one quarter the size of a phone booth, we headed outside for lunch.
This is where I committed mistake #22: failure to translate each word on the menu. (This rule also applies to road signs). I first did some quick translation of the menu words I did not recognize. For example, I learned that morcilla was blood sausage, something that would have been good to know before yesterday’s lunch. Cleverly avoiding the Burgalesa, (eggs, potatoes, and blood sausage), I chose the Marinara, (eggs, potatoes, and shrimp). But those who read the fine print will note that I missed the word “gulas.”
I would later learn that gulas is short for angulas. Which would have sounded suspiciously enough like the French word for eel to make me wary.
Because I pride myself on not being a sissy, I ate several mouthfuls of gulas. They were even quite tasty. But then instinct took over and the gag reflex kicked in. Luckily, Robby was quite happy to eat them all. I quietly retired to the room, ate some cookies and chocolate and recovered nicely.
Day 7: No Service
6.5 hours, 26 km: Buelna to Celorio
The countryside was postcard perfect today. We undertook a leisurely departure at 7:30 a.m. as we feared veering off the coastal paths in the dark.
We set our sights on Andrin for a coffee and bocadillo breakfast, about 11 km into our journey. After some flailing about in the deserted town, it dawned on us. Today was Sunday again! All shutters were closed. We then improvised with a breakfast of biscuits, chocolate, and water. No matter, only 6 km to Llanes.
On the way, we enjoyed a phenomenal panoramic view from the path circling the Club de Golf la Cuesta de Llanes. This is one of those golf clubs that sits atop a cliff overlooking the ocean. (I’m sure the green fees are very reasonable). There was some discussion as to how we had made our way onto this route versus the flat road into town that we could see in the distance but no culprits were found.
We descended into Llanes, which was bubbling over with Sunday promenaders, and found a selection of cafes and bakeries. Breakfast time was over for us, but the caffeine we found was much appreciated. Naturally, I took the opportunity to do some restocking at the local Farmacia.
Next stop on our list was the town of Poo. Because we have the maturity of 11-year-olds we couldn’t resist a picture.
At about 2 p.m. we rolled into Celorio and discovered the Old Seaman Bed and Breakfast. The establishment has been tastefully restored with a nautical theme and the staff were friendly and helpful.
Showered and freshened up in my clean (though casual) clothes I proceeded next door to what looked like a delicious restaurant, the El Chiqui. I stood behind a Spanish family that were quickly shown to a table. After waiting a few minutes outside, I proceeded inside. Only to be told by a very embarrassed waiter that they were full. Given the nearly empty room, and the Spanish customers that continued to be shown to their tables, this “fullness” was only the case for customers with bad hair and bad shoes. At his suggestion, we proceeded down the road and had a phenomenal meal in the sunshine at the A Mares restaurant. Our waiter was pleasant and the food was excellent. Their loss.
Day 8: Asymptotes
7 hours, 28km: Celorio to Ribadesella
In math there is a construct known as an “asymptote.” An asymptote is a line that gets closer and closer to a curve but never actually gets there. Our approach to Ribadesella today was a little like that.
The day started out well as the Old Seamen in Celorio had an automatic espresso machine to kick off the day. The morning featured more scenic views and sunrises. And then with three hours hiking under our belts we arrived in Nueva as coffee shops and bakeries were just opening. Three hours hiking is just about the limit of what I can do on an empty stomach.
Not to be caught short today we added some extra pastries to our supplies.
Somewhere before Cuerres we chose a path that crossed a river. And then rather than taking the “long” way across we took a “short cut.” This led us to the coast along a phenomenal series of cliffs, rocky outcroppings and “buffones.” After scrambling up and down for what seemed like a very long time we discovered that we were now further away than before the river, heading down a path that did not exist in any books. Clearly an asymptotic situation.
To break the cycle, we plowed inland on what was probably an animal path, hoping that the cow patties belonged to a nice she-cow and not her cranky boyfriend. To make us feel better, two different Spanish families stopped us to ask us how to get to the cliffs. We had become local tour guide experts. Our photos of the cliffs were much admired.
The Hotel Derli Sella, just over the bridge from Ribadesella center, on a busy corner, seemed like it would be noisy but we slept well and the staff were friendly and helpful. It was close to a beautiful beach and a tasty pizza restaurant.
Day 9: Cloudy skies, Rainbows, and buses
22km+18km (cheating): Ribadesella to Villaviciosa
What a great day! It felt like being back in the pacific northwest – other than the balmy breeze that is. It was warm, muggy and dark as we pulled out of Ribadesella.
For the last 3 days we’ve noticed that Spanish weather forecasters are on par, accuracy-wise, with those at home. Each forecast of rain turned into a day of uninterrupted sunny skies. Today the chance of rain was 4%. The skies seemed to believe otherwise.
About mid-morning, after walking in t-shirts through on and off drizzle, things began to take a turn. We suited up, put on our pack covers, and walked for a total of about 12 and a half minutes in our rain gear. At that point the rain dried up and it was wetter inside the rain gear than outside of it. A quick change again and we reverted to our warm weather clothes.
During our calculations yesterday evening, we determined that the only way to cram the remaining distance to Santiago into our limited remaining days was to think creatively. Therefore, for the princely sum of €3.50 we were able to cover the last 18km of our 40k journey to Villaviciosa today in no time at all! Thanks to the Spanish bus system.
We arrived in Villaviciosa, relaxed and ready to tuck into the set menu recommended to us by the hotel manager at Hotel Avenida Real. Reservations at Casa Milagros were absolutely necessary at the restaurant, the place was hopping! The hotel manager made sure that we told the servers that he had sent us and that we were to have the local set menu (not the tourist stuff).
When we strolled from the bus station to our hotel we hadn’t paid much attention to the series of tents selling souvenirs. Nor to the tables being set up in the park. And the odd person dressed as a pirate. When we installed ourselves in the room, the cannon fire we heard late in the evening foreshadowed the night of local fiesta’ing that has seen no rival on any Camino thus far.
Day 10: Hills, a dog rescue and a trip to the hospital
Villaviciosa to Gijon 29km (then the bus to Aviles)
When I woke up, the odd few marks that I had seen on my leg the previous evening had blossomed into an all over body rash. Other than itchiness, I felt fine so we carried on.
The day contained the two highest climbs of the Camino and we sailed through them with relative ease. A lot of huffing and puffing, interspersed with some cursing, but no breaks at the side of the road.
On our way to the top of the peak we were trailed by a scrappy looking dachshund mix who was chivvying along his friend /girlfriend. We couldn’t tell if it was a rescue or an escape. With our best guess at the cell number written on Odie’s collar we engineered a dog rescue / reincarceration.
Upon arriving in Gijon, I tried to get some cortisone cream from the pharmacy. The local pharmacist refused to give me anything until I had seen a doctor at the medical center. At the hospital I was diagnosed with a mystery allergic reaction to something. (Apparently definitely not bed bugs. Though I am suspicious of a diagnosis that was made from a doctor that didn’t get any closer than 10 feet away from me.) I was given two mystery shots in the derriere and a prescription for cream and sent on my way. Thanks go to my Insead friend Lourdes who provided Spanish translation services with the doctor.
To avoid the industrial slog coming out of Gijon, and to make up for the hospital delay, we again hopped on the handy-dandy Alsa bus. The bus had just arrived at our stop in Aviles when the skies opened up. We were soaked to the skin within the 43 seconds it took to sprint the 100 meters to our hotel. We dried off in a very nice Alda Hotel and enjoyed some refreshments and people watching in the town square. Not a pirate in sight.
Day 11: Lunch by the river and an Oops
Aviles to El Pito 28km
Things are beginning to get slightly busier on the Camino now. We have gone from seeing as few as 2 to 3 pilgrims in a day to a little over 10. We made good time walking through some amazing eucalyptus forests. We originally intended to stay in Muros de Nalon, but we arrived an hour or two before check-in time. For the first time the host told us to come back later. As we debated our plan, we heard her hacking up a lung through the open albergue window and decided to push on to El Pito.
In El Pito, the nice hostal lady at the Hotel Rural Aguilar informed us that the closest restaurant was closed, but that if we hurried, we could walk “about 300 meters” down the road to the Arbichera restaurant. Though we hopped-hobbled-ran what turned out to be more than 1km , the food far exceeded our expectations. A not to miss restaurant. It may be that the white wine that we enjoyed with our fresh fish contributed to the unfortunate dropping of my phone on the walk back to the hotel. The lodgings were quaint and quiet and we slept well.
Day 12: Ravines and new Friends
El Pito to Cadavedo, 32 km
We awoke early and left our hostel at 6:45. Walking in the dark on the roadside is relatively safe, but venturing along a bumpy forest path in the dark convinced even the most battery conscious person (Robby) to turn on the phone flashlight before anyone broke a limb.
After having spent the night railing against myself and Google, I resigned myself to a phone free Camino. (Google had decided that I am a person not to be trusted, even though I know my login and password. Who needs two factor authentication?) Thus relieved of my GPS navigation duties I was now just along for the ride.
Along the way, we passed through Novellana which was a very small but picturesque town with quirky bicycle garden structures and painted benches.
On this leg we chose the “coastal variant.” Unlike the beach cliffs of our previous walks, this involved a series of very sharp descents down ravines and up the other side. After the fourth such of these, I chose the alternative which was a series of hair pin turns on the National road. But at least my thighs were not burning. Unless, at this point of the camino, you are still a fan of burning thighs I might choose an alternative route.
Accommodation was full at our chosen albergue and we checked into a very small albergue, Covi y Peter. We luckily managed to negotiate a chicken sandwich from the bar/restaurant even though the kitchen had already closed. The communal area in the albergue was “petite” to put it mildly, but we enjoyed chatting with the other guests on the bench outside. And had a lovely bunkmate, Helena from the U.K.
Day 13: Thorns and Tunnels
Cadavedo to Villaperdre, 30km
I am embarrassed to say that I was the first to wake up this morning (thus disturbing everyone at 6:18 a.m.) It was a much less hilly path than yesterday. And much more collegial. Helena (perhaps not wisely) joined us straight out of the albergue and we marched on in companiable chatter. An hour or two into our walk we spotted a cafe that was open, peopled with several pilgrims and ready for business. This was already the most social we had seen things on this camino. One of the patrons was a pilgrim from Moose Factory Canada near James Bay. I did actually claim that there was no such place but he insisted that there was.
Throughout the day, the three of us enjoyed hiking along rolling hills and chatting about topics as diverse as U.K. politics and the term “should have bought a squirrel” from the movie Rat Race.
The most interesting part of the day was a Camino first. As I had mentioned, the del Norte Camino is poorly and somewhat randomly indicated. At a point (which would turn out to be not that far from our destination) we decided to take an alternately marked path across the autoroute. This led us through a long, dark, narrow run-off tunnel under the highway. And then on to a very small path. And then on to an even smaller, pricklier path that was perhaps made by small rodents.
At one point we were actually on hands and knees, wrapped in blackberry thorns and cursing up a storm. We were forced to break the Camino rule 7.5, “never turn back.” Apparently there is a sub-clause that states that if you are actively bleeding, and the foliage has begun to grow into your equipment, you can turn back. And so it came to pass. We turned back.
We fought our way through more thorns. Back through the creepy tunnel and out the other side. And then we went another wrong way. And then I lost my sunglasses. But ultimately we found our accommodation. Hotel El Pinar. It was spectacular. Nicely decorated with very comfortable beds.
After a brief clean up, we hustled to the restaurant across the way. We waited anxiously for their decision as to whether or not we had arrived before the kitchen closed. The dice rolled in our favor and the restaurant served us a very tasty meal. Sadly, the next guest was not so lucky. As we ate, we watched a local wedding take place in a windstorm that threatened to blow away the marquis. All of these things, the scratches, as well as the post-wedding fireworks while we tried to sleep, added to the treasure of memories we would not have gathered from a couch in front of the television set.
Day 14: Taking it aasy to La Caridad
Villaperdre to La Caridad, 20 km
We didn’t let the wedding fireworks interrupt our sleep. Not at all. With only a short 20km to our next stop, we had a relaxing wake-up. By wonderful chance we only had to roll down a short hill to coffee and breakfast. Coffee before starting the day is a real luxury.
Post breakfast, the three of us strolled along relatively flat roads and paths. Along the way we crossed paths with a Belgian gentleman, Marc, that we had seen along the way. Much time was spent discussing how many scratches we had each received during yesterday’s bramble-fest.
At a certain point, Anneliese, another Belgian, joined our little group. She had been hiking for 2 weeks and had gone days without seeing anyone. Wow, so much socialization. Fantastic.
After a casual lunch for four in La Caridad, Helena discovered that all three albergues in town were closed. This would mean another 2+ hours of walking for her. Not good times.
Luckily, Robby and I had booked ahead at an amazing hostel. Really more of a mini castle. Hotel Rural Casa Xusto. We appeared to be the only guests. And after rousting the host from his siesta, he greeted us with cold beers and a plate of cured meat.
A lazy afternoon, a short trip back to the square for an evening drink and the day was done.
Tomorrow we had a big day ahead of us in Ribadeo! Where the streets are paved with gold!
Day 15: All can be found (almost) in Ribadeo
La Caridad to Ribadeo: 25km plus a few
We started off, once again able to enjoy a coffee and a bun – this time before 7 a.m.! Still dark, we bumped into the man from Moose Factory himself.
This would be our last day on the coast. And hopefully our last bridge. I hate bridges! The rest of the road to Santiago would be inland.
Once in Ribadeo we took in all that was exciting to do in the big smoke. First up – the phone repair shop! Sadly, a quick repair was a no go, but we snagged an unlocked Spanish phone and I am stumbling my way back online.
Second up – laundry! Hand washing is well and good but nothing beats a machine wash on high temperature. Robby had to jostle with a few unsavory characters at the lavanderia but all our clothes emerged relatively intact. Slightly gray, but intact.
While Robby was lounging about the laundromat I walked >1km up the hill(both ways) to a large supermarket for additional supplies: pole tips, replacement sunglasses, and a few impulse items.
Next up, a healthy lunch and a rest!
Our room at Hotel Bouza was comfortable, though the staff had very little sympathy for Anneliese whose room was lacking in any hot water.
Day 16: Into Galicia
Ribadeo to Lourenza, 28km
We had a leisurely start with a cafe in the bar downstairs from our hotel. Feet on the street at 7:35. No breakfast, as I had been a little over-excited with the abundance in the Lidl store yesterday and had stockpiled plenty in the pack for breakfast and snacks along the way.
Straight out the door we bumped into Helena who was also heading to Lourenza.
As we crossed the border into Galicia things began to change, the biggest of which was the signage. Rather than the previously scattered and often conflicting signage, sometimes crossed out by potential graffiti artists, Galicia had very regular signage on concrete structures. No messing around.
Early on, we met up with multiple other pilgrims including our first Dane of the Camino.
Fields, cows, and some steep hill climbs were the order of the day.
Luckily we had our snacks to keep us going.
There was much discussion of aches and pains and the best treatments.
Before too much time, about six and a half hours later, we arrived at our stay for the night at the Pension Albergue O Pedregal, showered and headed out for an overly large meal. The lodgings were clean and new, the beds were comfortable with a mix of bunk and private rooms, and the noise was minimal.
Day 17: The Hill that Wouldn’t End
Lourenza to Abadin: 24 very hard km’s
I know I had said previously that our hardest day was behind us, but I was wrong. Day 17 was up, up, and more up. We left in plenty of time to shuffle our way up the hill.
It is very disappointing that the photos don’t do justice to the steepness of the ascent. At one point I said to Robby, “We better not be climbing up to those windmills!”
During the climb, Helena demonstrated her mountain goat heritage and left us in the dust. We cleverly overtook her at the top. This is thanks in part to her having taken a quick nap.
A quick reapplication of sunscreen and we enjoyed stunning views from the top.
The Albergue Xabarin in Abadin was ideal. It boasted large communal areas both inside and outside. It had clean, new facilities, and a welcoming host. It also offered private and communal rooms with plenty of social space for comparing blisters. I cooked a homemade pasta dish which we shared with our regular and new walking mates while everyone took turns replenishing our supply of 2€ bottles of wine at the shop next-door.
Day 18: Taking it Easy
Abadin to Vilalba: 21km
There are points on the Camino where you have the choice between too short and too long. Today too short was just perfect. Yesterday was grueling- at least for me – while today felt like a walk in the park. Short and relatively flat. What a combination!
Anneliese undertook a monster day yesterday and was able to rejoin the crew.
After our communal meal yesterday the gang is coming together. Plenty of time for a mid-morning coffee and breakfast break. Helena was awarded “team member of the day” for identifying theis hard to spot establishment.
Today is our treat of the Camino. A stay at the historic Parador de Vilalba. We enjoyed a fantastic lunch on site and are now settling in for a well-earned rest.
Day 19: Breaking 100
Vilalba to a Lagoa: 34km
Today we started the home stretch. Sometime during the day we would pass the 100km marker indicating we had less than 100km remaining to reach Santiago. The ladies met us at 6:45 a.m. and we set out by the light of Helena’s headlamp and my phone flashlight. Today would also be our last 30km+ day.
The landscape was a mix of roadside and shady dirt roads but nothing too challenging in terms of incline. It was a long slog but the company was great.
Stretching is an important part of every day. Walk, stretch, drink water, have a snack. We average 4 to 5 km an hour but there’s a lot to pack in.
Today, we stayed at the Albergue a Lagoa in a small hamlet. It was run by a mother-son team and had clean and new bunk accommodations and a small shop. With nowhere else to go nearby, the albergue offered a tasty home-cooked meal starting at 6:30. Our first “dinner” of the Camino.
Day 20: To the Monastery!
A Lagoa to Sobrado dos Monxes: 28km
We feared that today the weather would turn. Though the temperatures dropped and the clouds dogged our steps, other than a light sprinkle later in the day we were saved from the worst of the rain. We were the most hated of the A Lagoa Albrgue residents as we were the first awake and up. To our credit, the other residents appeared to enjoy visits to the restroom and testing the lights every few minutes during the night so it was in a sense only fitting. Our early rising also gave us first crack at breakfast.
Today we were joined by Christian from Switzerland who added a second headlamp and a wide selection of food items to the team provisions.
We were told that today’s route would be devoid of food opportunities. Part way thru the day we came across an enterprising farm woman who had started a side hustle as an impromptu cafe. Instant black coffee for everyone regardless what was ordered. The cafe was fiercely guarded by a few trained security dogs.
After a long hoof, we approached Sobrado, the location of a large monastery that had come highly recommended. The monastery hosted on the order of a hundred pilgrims in excellent group accommodations.
The bunk rooms were newly refurbished and nicely appointed. Helena won the lottery and was assigned the bunk above the winner of the 2021 snoring championship.
For “dinner” we had a pleasant meal at the Plaza cafeteria and bar. It was conveniently located close to the monastery and the food was excellent. Our waiter continued the trend and made the short list of surliest waiters of the camino.
Day 21: Strolling to Arzua
Sobrado dos Monxes to Arzua: 25km
With an easy day ahead of us, we had a leisurely start and breakfasted at 7:45 at the cafe across the road. Luckily, the cranky waiter from yesterday had been replaced by a surly waitress. It can’t be an easy life. Understaffed, and surrounded by people who don’t speak the language waving sticks at you. Helena does a yeoman’s job and takes on much of the ordering in Spanish.
We have spent part of our days and evenings with Jurgen from Germany. Always cheery, he broke into tunes from Life of Bryan and Singing in the Rain today.
Again the rain held off until our arrival at the accommodation. We stayed at a less then memorable, though large and clean suite in Arzua. We didn’t have much time to admire our 1970s decor until charging off to grab lunch before it closed. And by charging, I mean skip/hobbled as fast as we could to join the others. Another lesson that we had forgotten – don’t book accommodation more than 100 meters from the Camino. You will regret it!
Lunch at Tony’s Sapori di Casa was fantastic. Two thumbs up from me! The best part of the lunch was watching new pilgrims wander down the road, phones in hand, looking for their accommodation, while we were fed, warm, and dry. How lucky we were.
Day 22: It’s Almost Over
Arzua to O’Pedrouzo: 20km
It’s hard to believe it’s almost over. Yesterday, the much busier French Camino and the del Norte met. It was a different world. A world of plenty but also a world of too much.
It was now easy to find a coffee at 7 a.m., but to do so, elbows and hip checks might have been needed.
Upon arrival at O Pedrouzo we checked into our clean and comfortable accommodations at Peregrina Pension 2. The units had a combination of private and semi-private rooms in apartments with small kitchens.
After refreshing in our rooms, we made our way to the El Bule restaurant. This was a do-not-miss meal and we toasted our good fortune on finding it and securing a table.
Day 23: The Last Day
O’Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 20km
We passed a relatively peaceful night in our lodgings. The accommodations had filled while we were “lunching” and it felt a little like a university dorm but filled with older people with more blisters.
First breakfast was just below our lodgings. Handy, quick, and tasty, with a glimpse of a seldom experienced morning smile from our server.
The route to the cathedral was paved with coffee opportunities and Robby felt obliged to collect as many stamps as possible along the way.
A quick shot for posterity and we were off on our last day’s hike. It was one of those days that you couldn’t wait to end but didn’t want to be over.
The crowds were thick and the tempers were a bit frayed but there were beautiful moments nonetheless. On the last day, strides were lengthening to the point that my max walking speed could not keep pace, and I began to lag behind. At this point in time I used the devious strategy of yelling out “chocolate!” – this seemed to slow down the troops and keep us all together.
As it was the last day, and a short one, we decided to enjoy a second breakfast after only 5 km. Only 15km to go!
This inspiring group was made up of some brave souls with severe visual impairment and their guides doing the Camino arm in arm.
And here was the money shot. After a long trek up and down mountains, across sand and sea, we had arrived at Santiago. Not necessarily wiser, but certainly older and a bit frayed around the edges. And with memories that would last a lifetime.
The best part of arriving in Santiago is realizing that you don’t have to wake up in the dark, strap on your blister prevention paraphernalia, and don slightly dark and more-than-slightly smelly clothing the next morning. Sleeping-in would be possible. A leisurely breakfast more than a fantasy. But already I miss the team.
A good night’s sleep awaits. Ultreia! Until the next camino!
Hacking the Camino 